Pacific-lapped Auckland is perfect for water babies.

This waterside city has a strong pulse and a nautical twinkle in its eye. Its location on a thin stretch of the North Island, sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea, is complemented by the lush subtropical forests of nearby hills and the volcanic terrains of nearby islands.

With its spectacular harbour and bridge, New Zealand's largest city ranks with the best and its districts weave their way around a variety of bays ideal for swimming, water sports and particularly yachting - hence the nickname 'City of Sails'.

Environment

Latitude: -36.9039993286
Area: 16140sqkms
Population: 1200000
Orientation:

Administratively, Auckland consists of a number of cities forming one vast urban sprawl. Auckland City proper lies between the Waitemata and Manukau Harbours. North Shore City, including the suburbs of Takapuna and Devonport, is just over the harbour bridge. Manukau City is to the south of Auckland proper, Waitakere City is to the west.

The lively waterfront, with its stylish Viaduct Harbour and Princes Wharf development, is a good place to start an exploration of the city. The commercial heart is Queen St. It runs from Queen Elizabeth II Square near the waterfront uphill to cosmopolitan Karangahape Rd (K Rd), passing Aotea Square.

Parnell, just east of the city centre, is a fashionable area of renovated wooden villas crammed with restaurants and boutiques. Tamaki Drive (sometimes called Waterfront Drive) starts from here and continues east all the way to St Heliers Bay, passing the swimming beaches at Okahu Bay and Mission Bay en route. Offshore, the Hauraki Gulf is dotted with islands. Southeast of the centre is the huge green expanse of Auckland Domain, one of 22 parks in the city. To the west are the fashionable cafe district of Ponsonby and upmarket Herne Bay. And visible from just about everywhere in Auckland is the Sky Tower, which soars above the city centre.

Economy

Room costs
Low: 50-85, Mid: 85-180, High: 180-250, Deluxe: 180-250

Meal costs
Low: 7-15, Mid: 15-35, High: 35-50, Deluxe: 35-50

Weather

Auckland's maritime climate ensures that temperatures never go to the extremes they would if the city were landlocked. Temperatures usually stay in the mid-20°s (high 70°Fs) in summer, and rarely fall near freezing in winter (June-August) - although the ground in some sheltered low-lying areas may at times receive a coating of frost. In summer the weather can become quite humid.

Communication

Area Code: 09

Events

Summer is a happening time in Auckland. In January there are the Open Tennis Championships and the Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta, commemorating the arrival of Captain Hobson in New Zealand. Come March, the hugely popular Pasifika Festival celebrates Polynesian culture through music and performances at Western Springs. The Waiheke Jazz Festival also tunes up in March and full-size Maori waka (war canoes) take to the Waikato River, Ngaruawahia, for the Turangawaewae Regatta. November blooms with the Ellerslie Flower Show at the Botanic Gardens, and the year is wrapped up in December with the Auckland Cup at Ellerslie Race Course. Various small food, wine and music festivals crop up throughout the year.

New Year's Day (official holiday) 1 Jan

Waitangi Day (official holiday) 6 Feb

Easter (official holiday) Mar/Apr

Anzac Day (official holiday) 25 Apr

Queen's Birthday (official holiday) 1st Mon in June

Labour Day (official holiday) 4th Mon in Oct

Christmas Day (official holiday) 25 Dec

Boxing Day (official holiday) 26 Dec

New Year (official holiday) 1 Jan

Auckland Anniversary Day (official holiday) 29 Jan

Waitangi day (official holiday) 6 Feb

Easter (official holiday) Mar/Apr

Anzac Day (official holiday) 25 Apr

Queen's Birthday (official holiday) 1 Jun

Labour Day (official holiday) Oct

Christmas Day (official holiday) 25 Dec

Boxing Day (official holiday) 26 Dec

Activities

With a mild climate and stunning natural surroundings to call their own, Aucklanders are bound to lead a healthy outdoor lifestyle. Boating is an Auckland institution: there are some 80,000 pleasure boats in the city. The plentiful beaches also offer swimming, surfing and other water sports.

Media

Books

A Field Guide to Auckland: Exploring the Region's Natural and Historic Heritage (Author: Ewen Cameron, Bruce Hayward & Graeme Murdoch)

An excellent guide, virtually indispensable for anyone who wants to explore Auckland's natural and historic treasures.

Untamed Coast (Author: Bob Harvey)

Another excellent book about Auckland's wild west coast and its hinterland. It has maps, photos, plenty of information on walks in the area, interesting historical background and lots of anecdotes.

On the Road: K Rd (Author: Kevin Kearns)

A close-up look at Auckland's most colourful street. There's a parade of characters - the stripper, the saint, the con, the gypsy and so on.

Pacific New Zealand (Author: Graeme Lay)

Not purely about Auckland, but because Auckland has such a large Pacific Island population the city gets much coverage. This book provides an insight into Pacific Island customs, art and lifestyles.

Auckland: A Portrait (Author: Ralph Talmont)

A photographic coffee-table book showing Auckland in all its guises.

Plumb (Author: Maurice Gee)

An award-winning first-person account of the life and fortunes of George Plumb (lawyer-turned-parson-turned-protestor) and his descendants.

Culture

History Before 20th Century

Maori oral history maintains that the Maoris came to the islands of New Zealand in waka (canoes) from other parts of Polynesia. Of all the waka that visited the region, the ones carrying the Tainui, whose descendants were known as Ngaoho, have had the most lasting impact. These waka called in at many places before being hauled across the isthmus where Auckland is now situated to Manukau Harbour. Archaeological evidence of human settlement dates back some 800 years, with the earliest sites mainly located along coastlines and harbour mouths. The picture that emerges is one of a distinctly Polynesian society that depended on fishing, the gathering of shellfish and edible plants and (increasingly as the centuries passed) agriculture. Until the 17th century, when tribes from the north and south challenged the isthmus dwellers, things were relatively peaceful. However, by the time European settlers arrived in 1839, tribal warfare, disease and destruction of the area through hunting and forest clearance had depleted the Maori populations.

A pivotal date for Auckland is 1840. The year began with the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, commonly seen as New Zealand's founding document. In Auckland, local chiefs gathered at Karaka Bay, Awhitu and Mangere to sign or put their marks to the document that promised protection of Maori land if the Maori recognised British sovereignty. In this year too, William Hobson, Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand, chose Auckland as the capital of the new colony, named for his naval commander George Eden (Lord Auckland). The city retained this distinction until 1865, when Wellington took over as capital.

During the township's early years, relations with the Maori seemed quite cordial. Maoris, in fact, supplied most of the fresh produce for the township; they traded widely and provided labour for public works and other projects. However, despite the treaty, the encroachment of European settlers on Maori land was continuous, leading to a series of skirmishes and conflicts. Barracks were built in Auckland and British troops called up. Most of the fighting took place in Waikato; some, however, occurred on the southern borders of the Auckland region, around Pukekohe and Clevedon. This had a devastating effect on local Maoris and many settlers also suffered heavy losses. Maoris themselves refer to the Land Wars of the 1840-60s as Te Riri Pakeha (White Man's Anger), and claim, as did some European observers of the day, that they were only defending their land and their culture. The result was massive confiscations of land, the ramifications of which are still being addressed today.

Modern History

The turn of the 20th century was an era of social and economic reform that made New Zealand a world leader in social welfare: the vote for women, the old-age pension, a national child-welfare program, minimum wages and a 40-hour working week were all brought in. However, the country suffered heavily in WWI, with one in every three men aged between 20 and 40 killed or wounded fighting for Britain. The suffering continued during the Great Depression and WWII, when war was declared in the Pacific, and New Zealand was directly threatened. The Pacific War also brought many American servicemen to Auckland, and their influence still remains in some quarters. Things began looking up again in the post-war years, especially when Auckland hosted the Empire Games in 1950.

In the 1980s New Zealand declared itself a nuclear-free state, causing some friction with the US, whose warships were refused entry, and the French, who were testing nuclear weapons in the Pacific. In 1985 French secret service agents sank the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior in Auckland Harbour. The 70s and 80s also saw further friction between indigenous and non-indigenous populations, with a resurgence of Maori consciousness. In 1985 the Treaty of Waitangi was revisited, and while race relations remain an issue, Maori culture is now a significant part of the city's self-image.

Recent History

After a few years in the doldrums, Auckland is beginning to blossom. Perhaps the most significant event of the 1990s - at least a great cause for national celebration - was New Zealand boat Black Magic's historic win in the America's Cup race in 1995. Auckland's waterfront was given a facelift for the event in 2000, when the triumph was repeated. Team New Zealand subsequently lost 2003's challenge to landlocked Switzerland - whose boat was skippered and crewed by NZers. Auckland is the fastest growing city in New Zealand and it shows no signs of slowing down.

Factoid

Smokey on the Water

Auckland, the 'City of Sails' has the highest per capita ownership of boats and yachts in the world. Even a majority of pets are reported to own some kind of small craft or dinghy.

Places of Interest

Stardome Observatory

Web site: www.stardome.org.nz

Summary review: Budding astronauts, astronomers and stargazers will love Stardome's shows, designed for all ages. Screened on a domed ceiling, shows explain everything from how the earth moves to how to measure the universe.

Full review: There's also a changing program of planetarium shows, occasional musical performances under the stars and a special show for pre-schoolers. Some shows have translations in Japanese, German and Mandarin. Weekends are family days, with hands-on displays and activities.

Auckland Art Gallery (Toi o Tamaki)

Web site: www.aucklandartgallery.govt.nz

Summary review: One of New Zealand's premier art collections is on show at this gallery, which is housed in two stately buildings . An extensive permanent collection of NZ art (including Charles Goldie's stark Maori portraits of a vanished age) and contemporary art are now on show in the one building, the New Gallery, while the main gallery is refurbished.

Auckland Zoo

Web site: www.aucklandzoo.co.nz

Summary review:

Although the Auckland Zoo is not huge, it has spacious, natural compounds. The primate exhibit is well done, and the African animals' enclosure, Pridelands, is excellent, as is the meerkat domain, which can be explored through tunnels. The coy kiwi makes a daily appearance at the Native Fauna Encounter, as does the tuatara - a rare reptile found only in NZ.

Full review: New additions to the zoo include a penguin enclosure, cheetahs and the sea lions, whom you can watch through an underwater viewing window.

Auckland Museum (Tamaki Paenga Hira)

Web site: www.aucklandmuseum.com

Summary review: This monumental-looking museum sits atop a sweeping expanse of lawn that forms part of the Auckland Domain, one of Auckland's oldest parks. The museum has a comprehensive display on Pacific Island and Maori culture on the ground floor, including a magnificent 25m-long war canoe.

Full review: The 1st floor is dedicated to the natural world and has a first-class activities centre for children (plus some great life-size imitations of past giants like the moa). The 2nd floor focuses on New Zealanders at war - from the 19th century to the peace-keeping assignments of today, and includes a nifty re-creation of Auckland shops as they would have appeared in 1866.

For many, the highlight is the performance of Maori song and dance by Manaia. The informal shows at 11am, 12pm and 1:30pm provide a good (and good-humoured) introduction to Maori culture.

Lion Breweries

Web site: www.lionzone.co.nz

Summary review: It's like Homer Simpson's dream come true. Lion Breweries has turned its plain old brewery tours into an interactive 'beer experience'. Two-hour tours are held daily and include a history of brewing, an audiovisual presentation, a virtual tour of the brewing process and, of course, some quality time spent sampling beers in a replica brew house.

Caluzzi

Web site: www.caluzzi.co.nz

Summary review: Would you like drag with your steak? Your three-course set meal (around NZD50.00) comes with lashings of torch-song tunes, repartee and cheek (both buttocks and behavioural varieties) delivered by your drag queen-diva waitresses. Best you book a babysitter, and book ahead for dinner at Caluzzi.

Classic Comedy Club

Web site: www.comedy.co.nz

Summary review: Built for laughs, the Classic has proven to be the city's top comedy venue. See local comedians and comediennes stand up (and sometimes fall) during the venue's regular performance programme. Main shows are Thursday to Sunday and there's an open-mike night most Mondays. A bimonthly calendar of events is available at the door.

Lido

Web site: www.lidocinema.co.nz

Summary review: Auckland's most adored cinema, Lido's well-padded seats in its two licensed theatres make it the people's choice for seeing a flick. Couples should book the back row with removable armrests. Lido screens art-house, foreign and the odd Hollywood film.

Cafe Melba

Web site: www.cafemelba.co.nz

Summary review: Old school through and through, this dim and moody cafe has businessfolk clustered at its teeny tables both inside and out on Vulcan Lane. At breakfast, there is Eggs Benedict done three ways: veg, regular and with salmon. Or dip your spoon in delectable stewed fruit or porridge. Later at lunch, the menu moves to bagels and curries.

Toto

Web site: www.totorestaurant.co.nz

Summary review: A comprehensive list of Italian and NZ wines accompanies Toto's choice of fine Italian fare. And dinner ain't over in the Montecristo Room till the fat lady sings, with set menu and opera singing available Saturday. Movie and music nights also feature.

Sheinkin

Summary review: Sheinkin stands out amongst the other eggs-and-coffee joints in Auckland's CBD due to its stellar Israeli-inspired food, quality coffee and unhurried atmosphere. They do a fabulous tasting plate, soups and salads and there is plenty of glossy reading material to peruse while you wait for your bagel.

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