Beautiful buildings, bargain-price beer and Bohemian beads.

Matiçka Praha - 'little mother Prague' - was largely undamaged by WWII, and the cityscape is stunning. Its compact medieval centre remains an evocative maze of cobbled lanes, ancient courtyards, dark passages and churches beyond number, all watched over by an 1100-year-old castle.

Kidnapped by communism for 40 years, Prague has become one of Europe's most popular tourist destinations. Its traditional pubs and eateries have been augmented by a wave of gourmet restaurants, cocktail bars and trendy cafes - though you can still feast on pork and dumplings washed down with a beer.

'Prague doesn't let us go... This old crone has claws. One has to yield or else.' - Franz Kafka

Environment

Latitude: 50.1059989929
Area: 496sqkms
Population: 1215000
Orientation:

Prague sits amid the gentle landscapes of the Bohemian plateau, straddling the Vltava River, the Czech Republic's longest river. Central Prague consists of five historical towns: Hradçany, the castle district, on a hill above the west bank; Malá Strana, the 13th-century 'Little Quarter', between the river and castle; Staré Mêsto, the gothic 'Old Town' on the Vltava's east bank; adjacent Josefov, the former Jewish ghetto; and Nové Mêsto or 'New Town,' (new in the 14th century), to the south and east of Staré Mêsto.

Within these historical districts - linked by the landmark Charles Bridge - are most of the city's attractions. The whole compact maze is best appreciated on foot, aided by Prague's fine public transportation system. Beyond the centre is 19th- and 20th-century Prague, many of whose districts began as separate towns.

Society

People:

Czech with minorities of Slovaks, Poles, Germans, Romanies and Hungarians

Language spoken (official): Czech

Economy

Sample Prices

loaf of bread: Czech Koruna 0.20
chocolate bar: Czech Koruna 0.12
litre of milk: Czech Koruna 0.18
24-hr travel card: Czech Koruna 80.00
small bottle of beer: Czech Koruna 25.00
double room in Malá Strana hotel: Czech Koruna 4500.00
pork & dumplings: Czech Koruna 100.00
portrait by Charles Bridge caricaturist: Czech Koruna 200.00
souvenir t-shirt: Czech Koruna 300.00

Room costs Low: 500-2500, Mid: 2500-5499, High: 5500-7500, Deluxe: 5500-7500

Meal costs Low: 150-300, Mid: 300-600, High: 600-1000, Deluxe: 600-1000

Tipping:

After fair service in a restaurant, round up the bill to the next CZK10.00 (or the next CZK20.00 if it's over about CZK200.00). The same applies to tipping taxi drivers. If your driver is honest and turns on the meter then you should round up the fare at the end of your journey. In restaurants, the usual protocol is for the waiter or waitress to show you the bill and for you, as you hand over the money, to tell them the total amount you want to pay with the tip included. Change is usually counted out starting with the big notes, on down to the littlest coins. In more posh restaurants, if you say dĕkuji (thank you) during this process, your waiter may assume the rest is a tip.

Eat

Ethnic restaurants are burgeoning in Prague, so your diet can stretch beyond standard meaty Czech fare. There are also plenty of restaurants and pubs that move beyond the frumpy dumpling approach to embrace top-quality local food presented in creative and international ways.

Night

Prague's past plays a big part in its entertainment scene by providing centuries-old stone cellars for musicians to blaze away in, sculpted facades for beerhalls to make noise behind, or grand auditoriums for the staging of classical events. Competing with these are suavely modern bars and clubs.

See

Exploring the Old Town is a monumental task.

Sightseeing in Prague means wandering through an invigorating diversity of neighbourhoods and pounding the cobblestones between old fortifications, historically resplendent squares and streets, majestic church-fronts, green open-air cuttings, and countless museum and gallery ticket booths.

Shop

Prices are getting steeper but there are still plenty of bargains, and hunting them through the city's dim winding streets can be half the fun. Beautiful items like Bohemian crystal, garnets and traditional ceramics sit beside inspired home-grown fashions, music, decorative glassware and wines.

Sleep

The terms 'budget room' and 'city centre' are mutually exclusive bar a few cheap places within camera-lens distance of Old Town Square. Mid-range options are often three-star hotels, while there's no shortage of top-end choices stuffed full of classy eateries, grand fittings and business facilities.

Pre-departure

When to go

While attractions across much of the Czech Republic are closed or keep limited hours outside the summer season, Prague caters for visitors all year round. Periods when the tourist crush is especially oppressive include the Easter and Christmas/New Year holidays, as well as May and June. Many Czechs go on holiday in July and August, during which time the supply of bottom-end accommodation actually increases, as student hostels are opened to visitors. If you can put up with the cold and the periodic smog alerts during weather inversions, hotel space is plentiful in winter (outside Christmas/New Year), and Prague is gorgeous under a mantle of snow.

Visas

Nationals of all western European countries, Japan, the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can visit the Czech Republic for up to 90 days, and UK citizens for up to 180 days, without a visa. Nationals of South Africa and many other countries must obtain a visa, which is good for a stay of between 30 and 90 days depending on your nationality. Note that although the Czech Republic is now part of the EU, the visas issued by the Czech Republic are national and not Schengen visas. When the Czech Republic joined the European Union they did not become part of the Schengen area. Therefore valid Schengen visas cannot be used for entering the Czech Republic. Note also that Czech visas do not allow aliens to enter the territories of other EU member states. All aliens who require a visa when travelling to the Czech Republic must therefore have a valid Czech visa, corresponding to the purpose and length of their stay in the country.

Electricity voltage: 220V
Electricity HZ: 50Hz

Health

Dangers and Annoyances

As in most big cities, pickpockets gather wherever there are large crowds of tourists. There are also a few scams around. Over the last few years there have been an increasing amount of reports from foreigners who have been robbed by bogus police. Men who claim that they are plain-clothes police investigating counterfeiting or illegal money-changing approach tourists and ask to see their money, which is returned after being examined. The unsuspecting tourist finds out later when they check their wallet that a substantial amount of money has been taken. Another ploy involves a 'lost tourist' asking for directions (usually in halting English). Once you have been in conversation for a few minutes, two of the tourist's 'friends' interrupt, claiming to be plain-clothes policemen and accusing you of changing money illegally. They will demand to see your wallet and passport, but if you hand them over they are likely to run off with them. If in doubt, insist on accompanying them to a police station.

Events

The year begins with a festive New Year's Eve celebration, followed by holidays like Three King's Day (6 January) and the Anniversary of Jan Palach's death (19 January), which honours the memory of a Charles University student who burned himself to death in protest of the 1969 Soviet occupation.

Easter Monday, which falls in either March or April, is a classic rite of spring: Czech men of all ages swat at their favourite women with willow swatches, while the ladies respond with gifts of hand painted eggs, after which everyone parties.

Labour Day (1 May) is a communist leftover that coincides with the much older Majales, a spring festival dating back at least two centuries. Majales was banned by Nazis and communists, revived during the 'Prague Spring', subsequently squelched by Soviets and reincarnated in 1997. Majales' bands, dancers, floats, costumes, beer and sausage have since returned with a vengeance.

Liberation Day was celebrated 9 May (the day in 1945 that the Red Army marched into Prague) under the communist government, but in recent years you've had to get there by 8 May (the day Prague liberated itself) to enjoy the festivities.

New Year's Day (official holiday) 1 Jan

Easter Monday (official holiday) Mar/Apr

Labour Day (official holiday) 1 May

Liberation Day (official holiday) 8 May

SS Cyril & Methodius Day (official holiday) 5 Jul

Jan Hus Day (official holiday) 6 Jul

Czech Statehood Day (official holiday) 28 Sep

Independence Day (official holiday) 28 Oct

Struggle for Freedom and Democracy Day (official holiday) 17 Nov

Generous Day (Christmas Eve) (official holiday) 24 Dec

Christmas Day (official holiday) 25 Dec

St Stephen's Day (official holiday) 26 Dec

Prague Spring (international music festival) (festival/event) 12 May-4 Jun

Music Ecumenica (festival/event) early April

Musica Sacra Praga (festival/event) mid-Apr, Oct

Festival of Chamber Music (festival/event) May

Open-Air Opera Festival (festival/event) Jul-Aug

Verdi Festival (festival/event) Aug-Sep

Prague Autumn (festival/event) Sep

International Jazz Festival (festival/event) Oct

Musica Iuidica (festival/event) Oct-Nov

Febiofest (festival/event) Jan

Tenec Praha (festival/event) Jun

Prague Folk Festival (festival/event) Jul-Sep

Prague International Marathon (festival/event) late May

many Czechs take holidays; student accomodation more plentiful (travel-related date) Jul-Aug

peak tourist season (travel-related date) Jun-Sep

Activities

Prague has plenty of outdoor activities in the warmer months. Stroll the city's high spots, paddle along the Vltava or rent a bicycle; you can always mix sightseeing with exercise. Other ways to sweat it out are swimming, tennis, squash, golf, horse riding or the Prague International Marathon.

walking

Stroll through the greenbelt atop Petřín Hill and fill both your lungs and your eyes. The views of the city are magnificent and you're far enough above the fug of the city to breath fresh air.

cycling

Cycling in Prague is a hairy proposition - those steep cobblestones can be tricky, and the traffic is as thick as the air - but once out of the more populated areas, the freedom and mobility are their own reward.

paddle boating

Renting a rowboat or pedal-boat to tour the Vltava River on your own power can give you an interesting new perspective on the city.

Weather

Prague lies in the transitional area between maritime and continental climates, characterised by hot, showery summers, cold, snowy winters and generally changeable conditions. A typical day in Prague from June to August sees the mercury range from about 12°C (54°F) to 22°C (72°F). Temperatures from December to February push below freezing. Wide variations are common, sometimes surpassing 35°C (95°F) in summer and -20°C (-4°F) in winter. The closest thing to a 'dry season' is from January to March, when total precipitation (mostly as snow at that time) is less than a third of that during the wettest months, June to August. And yet January averages as many 'wet' days (about two out of five) as the summer months do. The summer's long, sunny, hot spells tend to be broken by sudden, heavy thunderstorms. May and September have the most pleasant weather.

Communication

Area Code:

All Czech phone numbers have nine digits - you have to dial all nine for any call, local or long distance.

The Czech Republic adaptor is an ugly square with a square indentation on one side that matches the relief on the opposite. Four flat blades stand out from the raised block and a phone line socket can be found on one end.

Media

Books

The Coasts of Bohemia (Author: Derek Sayer)

A quite readable history of the Czech lands.

Prague in Black and Gold (Author: Peter Dementz)

This fascinating history was written by an American professor who fled the country in 1949, returning after the Velvet Revolution to write this book.

We the People: The Revolutions of 1989 (Author: Timothy Garton Ash)

An Oxford historian's gripping 'I was there' account of the events that swept away communism's old guard.

Dubcek and Czechoslovakia (Author: William Shawcross)

A biography of Czechoslovakia's former leader (he inspired the Prague Spring) with a hasty post-1989 update.

The Reluctant President: A Political Life of Václav Havel (Author: Michael Simmons)

A biography of the charismatic playwright-president.

Living in Truth (Author: Václav Havel)

A series of absorbing political essays by the dissident-turned-president.

A Time of Gifts (Author: Patrick Leigh Fermor)

A luminous account of a trek through Europe, including Czechoslovakia, in the early 1930s.

Utz (Author: Bruce Chatwin)

A quiet, absorbing novella about a porcelain collector in the old Jewish quarter of Prague.

The Joke (Author: Milan Kundera)

A biting satire of communist Prague by one of the city's leading novelists.

The Trial (Author: Franz Kafka)

Kafka is perhaps Prague's most famous literary talent, and this is one of his greatest works.

Transport

getting there and away (overview)

Getting in and out of Prague is a snap, thanks to the cheap and well-run trains of Czech Railways (ČD) and the buses, which are even cheaper still, run more frequently and are quite comfortable. The budget prices and convenience of these modes of transports mean that air travellers to Prague are comparatively rare; if you do fly into the city, you'll fetch up in Ruzynĕ, the international airport.

getting around (overview) Prague's compact historic centre is best appreciated on foot, with the help of cheap, widespread public transportation. To think of driving is just foolhardy - the city's not set up too well for cars (or, for that matter, for bicycles). If you take taxis, beware of inflated fares; your best bet is a radio taxi.

Culture

History Before 20th Century

The oldest evidence of human habitation in the Prague valley dates from around 6000 BC. Permanent farming communities were established in the area by Germanic and Celtic tribes around 4000 BC. Slavs came into the picture around the turn of the millennium, and by the 600 AD had settled opposite sides of a particularly appealing stretch of the Vltava River. They successfully defended the land now known as Bohemia for generations, but by the 9th century it had been conquered by the Great Moravian Empire.

The short-lived empire introduced the locals to Christianity, but it was 'Good King Wenceslas' of Christmas-carol fame (he was actually a duke) who made it the state religion of Bohemia in the 930s. He remains the patron saint of the Czech Republic. It was under the rule of Charles IV (ruled 1346-78) that Prague truly came into its own, becoming one of the continent's largest and most prosperous cities, acquiring its fine Gothic face and landmark buildings like Charles University, Charles Bridge and St Vitus Cathedral.

Jan Hus, who attended Charles University in the late 1380s, rallied popular support for the Church-reform movement; when he was burned at the stake in 1415, the rabble was roused enough to hurl various Catholic officials from the upper stories of Prague's New Town Hall, introducing the word 'defenestration' (literally, to toss someone out a window) into the popular political lexicon. While the 1526 ascent of the Catholic Hapsburg family to power in the region cooled things off briefly, a second round of defenestrations in 1618 made it clear that the matter was not quite settled.

In fact, the insurrection catalyzed the Thirty Years War, which devastated much of Europe; a quarter of Bohemia perished. Their defeat slammed the door on Czech independence for almost three centuries. The Czech national spirit was not so easily crushed, however, and by the 19th century, Prague - which had been unified in 1784 by imperial decree - had become the centre of the so-called Czech National Revival. Czech literature, architecture and journalism were celebrated, even as Czechs were denied participation in the political process.

Nationalist sentiment was growing as waves of pro-democracy protests swept the continent. An 1848 uprising was summarily squelched, but in 1861 the Czech majority defeated German candidates in the Prague council elections. It was a watershed event for Czech independence.

Modern History

The 20th century solidified the Czech nationalist movement. Czechs had no interest in fighting for their Austrian masters in WWI, and neighbouring Slovakia was equally reluctant to take up arms for their German occupiers. Leaders from both independence movements approached US President Wilson, who was actively trying to build the League of Nations, asking for his help in achieving their dream. With Allied support, Czechoslovakia became an independent nation in 1918; Prague became its first capital.

The young country weathered the Great Depression only to be occupied by Nazi Germany in 1939 - Bohemia and Moravia were labelled a 'protectorate' and Slovakia an 'independent' (puppet) state. Prague's community of some 120,000 Jews was all but wiped out; almost three-quarters of them either starved or were murdered in concentration camps.

On May 5, 1945, the population of Prague rose up against German occupation forces as the Red Army approached from the east. Most of Prague was liberated before the Soviets arrived. Liberation Day is now celebrated on May 8; under communism it was May 9. In the 1946 elections, the communists became the young republic's dominant party, and in 1948 did away with the inefficiencies of a multi-party system with a Soviet-backed coup d'état.

In 1968, after years of gradual liberalisation under General Secretary Dubcek, the 'Prague Spring' came into full bloom. Full democracy, an end to censorship, and 'socialism with a human face' were the goals of this popular movement. Moscow was miffed and sent tanks into Prague. Fifty-eight people died, almost 300,000 sympathisers lost their jobs and, in something of a step down, Dubcek was forced to find employment with the Slovak Forestry Department.

The newly stringent communist leadership maintained control until the breaching of the Berlin Wall in 1989. A series of peaceful demonstrations beginning on November 17 became confrontational, though the essentially nonviolent character of the uprising earned it the name 'Velvet Revolution'. Free elections were held in 1990, and the Czech and Slovakian separatist movements subsequently inspired the smooth 1993 split into the Czech and Slovak Republics, remembered as the 'Velvet Divorce'. Prague quickly became one of the top tourist destinations in the world during the 1990s, and the ringing of cash registers combined with a solid industrial base has left its citizens in better economic shape than those in the rest of the country. Much of this spare change has been reinvested in the city itself, making for an even more pleasant visit.

Recent History

The Czech Republic has become a member state of the EU, and Prague will preside gracefully as the country finds a new place in the world.

In August 2002 Prague experienced the worst floods in almost two centuries, with the river Vltava sweeping the city. Sixteen people died, hundreds of thousands of people were forced to evacuate their homes and businesses, the historic city centre was closed off and there were fears - not realised - that the 14th-century Charles Bridge would be washed away. The final damage was calculated in the billions of US dollars, with the city's low-lying Jewish Quarter suffering considerable damage, as well as the Karlin and Troja districts, the metro system and numerous cultural and tourist attractions. Despite the disastrous damage, Prague and its citizens managed to bounce back, demonstrating once again that the spirit of the city really is indomitable.

Factoid

On the Up

A city of just over 1.2 million, Prague receives 10 times as many visitors as twenty years ago. But if you think Prague is crowded now, don't tarry too long: forecasters believe visitor numbers to the city - 7.4 million in 2004 - may double by the end of the decade.

Places of Interest

Dinitz Café

Summary Review:

This Art Deco coffee house harks back to the sophistication of the 20s with fine food served till late, and live music every night. The menu focuses on fresh food, simply prepared, with influences ranging from Mediterranean to Middle Eastern - don't miss the fish and chips, fried in crisp beer-and-parsley batter with crunchy fries and delicious herb aioli.

Albio

Summary Review:

This family-friendly wholefood restaurant sources all its food from local organic farmers. The menu includes fish, vegetarian and vegan dishes, such as vegetable tempura with horseradish dip and buckwheat pancakes filled with onion mash and grilled zucchini. There are also organic wines and unpasteurised beer so you can work up a wholesome hangover.

Full Review:

The restaurant is as bright and fresh as an Alpine morning, decked out in blonde wood and rustic timber set off with salmon-pink tablecloths and seat-cushions. It also operates its own on-site bakery, shop and advice counter offering tips on organic food and healthy eating.

Kampa Park

Summary Review:

Since '94, Kampa Park has drawn celebrities like moths to a flame. The cuisine is just as famous, from the grilled octopus with roasted broccoli, raisins and capers, to the filet mignon with glazed sweetbread and chanterelles. For a really romantic dinner, reserve a candle-lit table on the terrace with the lights of Charles Bridge glittering on the water.

Malý Buddha

Summary Review:

If you're after a peaceful meal then the fragrant tendrils of incense will easily entice you into this oriental tearoom. The food is mostly Vietnamese influenced, with lots of vegetarian offerings and an interesting selection of 'healing' wines, though the menu doesn't mention which is recommended for cobblestone-inflicted blisters.

Hotel Paříž

Web site: www.hotel-pariz.cz

Summary Review:

Built in 1904 in a mix of neo-gothic and Art Nouveau, the stately Paříž remains a bastion of belle époque style in the centre of the city. It has 86 individually designed rooms and suites, many of which are strikingly modern in design, while public areas form a showcase of early 20th-century glamour.

Full Review:

The five-star Paříž is an unashamedly exuberant memorial to the heady days of Alfons Mucha and Gustav Klimt (who, incidentally, have plush suites named in their honour), with stunning mosaic walls, wood panelling, artistic plasterwork and unmistakeably Nouveau chandeliers and paintings. The 'deluxe' and slightly pricier 'executive' rooms are spacious and sunny, furnished largely in contemporary style, with the occasional piece of early-1900s-inspired art to remind you where you are. The shiny bathrooms have everything you need, including that nice extra touch: heated floors. The suites have a bit more character, while for a truly unique experience, the Royal Tower Suite at the top of the house offers (literally) the highest point of luxury and a breathtaking 360° view of Prague. Breakfast isn't included, however, which at these prices seems a bit of a swiz.

Sir Toby's Hostel

Web site: www.sirtobys.com

Summary Review:

This exemplary smoke-free hostel has the brightest facade on the street. It's recently been spruced up inside and out and is planning further development of facilities. Very accommodating staff can provide info on the neighbourhood and Prague in general.

Full Review: Located north of the river in the suburb of Holešovice, Sir Toby's may seem a little out of the way, but it makes a good base for discovering this less-visited section of the city, and there are excellent local transport links. The dorms have between four and eight bunks, and the bigger dorms are probably the cheapest in Prague. The private rooms, meanwhile, are fitted with metal-framed single beds. All rooms are light, clean and spacious, but don't expect anything fancy. The mattresses are a little on the thin side, too, but all sheets and blankets are provided at no extra cost. There's a communal kitchen for self-caterers to do their thing, a lounge and a relaxing little garden where you can sit back and chat with the sociable crowd of international travellers who call Sir Toby's their temporary home.

Hotel William

Web site: www.euroagentur.cz

Summary Review:

Just a 5min walk from Charles Bridge, the William enjoys a great location. Depending on your personal tastes, the design scheme is either fantastically 'fairy tale' or terribly twee. Try to get a room overlooking the garden rather than the street.

Full Review: Hotel William occupies an imposing neoclassical townhouse in the heart of lovely Malá Strana, perfectly located for sightseeing. It has been recently renovated, and the decor scheme they've gone for is certainly a bold choice. You might feel like you've just walked onto the stage set of a Cinderella pantomime or a Disneyland theme hotel, with all the escutcheons, crenellations, fake stonework and crystal chandeliers, but it's a bit of fun, and certainly singles the place out from the usual, run-of-the-mill three-star hotels dotted around the city. You'll probably be relieved to hear, though, that the 42 rooms themselves are a tad more sober in design, and have a fresh, contemporary look, decorated with a more muted cream and yellow colour scheme. There's a short flight of steps up to reception, so unfortunately the William isn't suited to disabled guests.

USA Embassy

Web site: www.usembassy.cz

Irish Embassy

Web site: www.irishembassy.cz

Canadian Embassy

Web site: www.canada.cz

South African Consulate
UK Embassy

Web site: www.britain.cz

Abram Kelly

Summary Review:

This little workshop and studio produces handmade paper using traditional techniques, and sells it in the form of greeting cards, business cards, stationery, calligraphy, antique map prints and photographic prints.

Boheme

Web site: www.boheme.cz

Summary Review:

Opened in 2002, this clothing store showcases the designs of Hana Stocklassa and her associates, with collections of knitwear, leather and suede togs for women. Suede skirts, linen blouses and sweaters seem to be the stock in trade, and there's also a range of jewellery.

Manufaktura

Web site: www.manufaktura.biz

Summary Review:

Multibranch store selling a huge array of quality traditional Czech handicrafts, including the ubiquitous wooden toys, scented soaps (cream and vanilla seem very popular), beeswax candles, ceramics, linen, ironwork and colourful, hand-painted kraslice (Easter eggs), which carry a variety of designs from around the country.

Petřín Hill Summary Review:

This 318m-high hill is topped with a network of eight parks, comprising one of Prague's largest green spaces. It's great for cool, quiet walks and postcard-perfect views of the 'City of 100 Spires'. You can tone your thigh muscles hiking up from HradČany or Strahov, or take the funicular railway.

Full Review:

Once upon a time the hill was draped with vineyards, and you can still see the quarry that provided stone for most of Prague's Romanesque and Gothic buildings. Just south of the cable car terminus is Stefanik Observatory, where anyone can enjoy an enhanced view of a clear and starry night. North of the terminus on the summit is Petřín Tower, a 62m-high copy of the Eiffel Tower, built for the 1891 Prague Exposition. You can climb its 299 steps for a small fee. On a clear day you'll be able to take in sublime views of the central Bohemian woodlands.

Franz Kafka Museum

Web site: www.kafkamuseum.cz

Summary Review:

This much-hyped exhibition on the life and work of Prague's most famous literary son opened here in 2005 after three years in Barcelona and three years in New York. Entitled 'City of K', it explores the intimate relationship between the writer and the city that shaped him through the use of original letters, photographs, quotations, period newspapers and publications, and video and sound installations.

Full Review:

Does it vividly portray the claustrophobic bureaucracy and atmosphere of brooding menace that characterised Kafka's world? Or is it a load of pretentious old bollocks? You decide.

Prague Castle

Web site: www.hrad.cz/en/prazsky_hrad/navsteva_hradu.shtml

Summary Review:

With a magnificent clifftop outlook, a 1000-year-old history going back to a simple walled-in compound in the 9th century, and a breathtaking scale that qualifies it as the biggest ancient castle in the world, Prague Castle is the indisputable centrepiece of the Czech capital. Spend at least half a day in awe here.

Full Review:

Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad, or just Hrad to the Czechs) claims its 'largest' title with the following figures: 570m long, an average of 128m wide and 7.28 hectares of land. The castle has been the seat of Czech government since Prince Bořivoj founded the first fortified settlement here in the 9th century, though president Václav Havel chose to live in his smaller (and less touristy) home on the outskirts of the city. Some of the complex's highlights, like the Spanish Hall and Rudolf Gallery, are only open one Saturday a year (usually in early May). The rest of the castle's collection of architectural and artistic marvels, created over the course of the last millennium, is on display.

National Museum

Web site: www.nm.cz

Summary Review:

The neo-Renaissance bulk of the National Museum (Národní muzeum), with its staggering natural history collection, commands the southern end of Wenceslas Square. The rooms are suitably cavernous, with wall-to-wall displays of earthly magnificence such as dinosaurs and giant crabs.

Full Review:

The museum had a restless childhood that included a stint in Sternberg Palace in Hradçany before moving to a site on Na příkopé in 1846, and finally settling on its current spot in 1891. If you need some man-made splendour to refocus your attention, sit for a while in the stunning main stairwell. Or practise your stand-up material in front of the captive audience in the Pantheon, with its statues of prominent secular Czech citizens and upper-level murals.

Museum of Marionette Culture

Web site: www.puppetart.com

Summary Review:

A hanging multitude of authentic, colourfully dressed marionettes from the late-17th to early-19th centuries that will please kids and adults alike. Attractions include the famous Czech figures Spejbl and Hurvínek. The museum (Muzeum Loutkářských Kultur) is upstairs in the courtyard.

Malá Strana

Summary Review:

Malá Strana (the Small Quarter) clusters around the foot of Prague Castle. Most visitors pass through on steep Royal Way, as they climb to the castle, but the narrow side streets of this baroque quarter are worth examining. Almost too picturesque for its own good, the district is now a favourite for movie and commercial sets.

Full Review:

Malá Strana started up in the 8th or 9th centuries as a market settlement, and was chartered in 1257 by Premysl Otakar II. Its castle-front location has long attracted visitors, friends and foes alike: It was all but destroyed in the Hussite wars of 1419. Charming churches and palaces in the area date from the 17th and 18th centuries, with Renaissance facades that were later 'baroquified'.

Along the Royal Way, Nerudova Ulice is the quarter's most architecturally important street. Gems like the House of Two Suns, where poet Jan Neruda penned Tales of the Little Quarter (along with plenty of influential liberal essays and articles), and Bretfield Palace are two great examples of Czech artistry.

Dominating the quarter is St Nicholas Church, not to be confused with the eponymous chapel on Old Town Square. This exquisite building, with its huge green cupola, houses the largest fresco in Europe, Johann Kracker's 1770 Life of St Nicholas.

Also fine for strolling are the grounds of Wallestein Palace, where summer concerts are often held, and quiet Vojan Park, established in 1248.

Old Town Square

Summary Review:

The centrepiece of Staré Mĕsto is the huge 1.7-hectare Old Town Square. It has been Prague's working heart since the 10th century, and hosted its largest market until the beginning of the 20th century. It's surrounded by a maze of alleys and is home to some of Prague's most famous monuments.

Full Review:

Despite the over-the-top commercialism and crowds of tourists swarming the place, it's impossible not to enjoy yourself here. The cafes spilling onto the pavement, buskers and performing dogs, and silly horse-drawn beer wagons all conspire to elevate the area from ridiculous to sublime. It's also a great venue for outdoor concerts, political meetings and other public events. Landislav Saloun's brooding Art Nouveau sculpture of Jan Hus dominates the square the same way the martyr's memory dominates Czech history. It was erected on 6 July 1915, 500 years after the religious reformer was burned at the stake. Stroll down the Royal Way to the Vlatava, where the Charles Bridge has endured traffic for 600 years - thanks, legend says, to eggs mixed into the mortar. Watch out for pickpockets, who work the bridge day and night.

Charles Bridge

Summary Review:

Charles Bridge withstood wheeled traffic for 600 years, legend says, due to eggs mixed into the mortar. It was made pedestrian-only after WWII. Strolling its length, admiring the bridge's many monuments and grand Vltava views, seems to be everybody's favourite Prague activity (including pickpockets).

Full Review:

When a flood consumed the Judith Bridge in 1357, work immediately began on another bridge across the Vltava. Completed in 1402, Charles Bridge (Karlův most) was the only structure spanning the river for 460-odd years. Spanning 520m, the sandstone edifice named Stone Bridge didn't become Charles Bridge until 1870. Apart from the towers at either end, the bridge is lined with statues and monuments, the oldest and most popular being the statue of St John of Nepomuk, the Czech patron saint, who was thrown into the Vlatva by bad King Wenceslas IV in 1393.

Reduta Jazz Club

Web site: www.redutajazzclub.cz

Summary Review:

Founded in 1958, this is Prague's oldest jazz venue The intimate setting draws well-attired patrons into tiered seats and lounges to soak up the swinging big-band, Dixieland atmosphere. It pays to be early, as it occasionally oversells tickets.

U zavĕšeného kafe

Summary Review:

This is a superb little drinking den barely five minutes' walk from the castle. Head for the cosy, wood-panelled back room, quirkily decorated with weird art and mechanical curiosities by local artist Kuba Krejci (all for sale), and an ancient juke box crammed with classics. A half-litre of foaming Gambrinus is super cheap and the coffee is damn fine too.

Sedm Vlků

Web site: www.sedmvlku.cz

Summary Review:

Sedm Vlků (Seven Wolves) is a two-level, art-studenty cafe-bar and club - at street level, there's candlelight, friendly staff, weird wrought-iron work and murals, and the music's low enough to have a conversation. Down in the darkened cellar, DJs pump out techno, breakbeat, drum'n'bass and ragga on Friday and Saturday nights.

Radost FX Club

Web site: www.radostfx.cz

Summary Review:

Prague's slickest, shiniest and most self-assured club is still capable of pulling in the crowds, especially for its hip hop night, FXbounce (www.fxbounce.com). The place has a chilled out, bohemian atmosphere, with Moroccan-boudoir-meets-Moulin-Rouge decor, and there's an excellent lounge-cum-vegetarian restaurant that's open into the small hours.

Pivovarský dům

Web site: www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum

Summary Review:

Locals gather here to sample the classic Czech lager (in light, dark and mixed varieties) that is brewed on the premises, as well as wheat beer and a range of flavoured beers (including coffee, banana and cherry). The pub itself is a pleasant place to linger, decked out with polished copper vats and brewing implements and smelling faintly of malt and hops.

  © 2005 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.

We and our content providers Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. have tried to make the information on this website as accurate as possible, but it is provided 'as is' and we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from this information. You should verify critical information (like visas, health and safety, customs, and transportation) with the relevant authorities before you travel.