Gay Paree will put the joie back in your vivre.

Paris stimulates the senses, demanding to be seen, heard, touched, tasted and smelt. From romance along the Seine to landscapes on bus-sized canvases to the pick-an-ism types in cafes monologuing on the use of garlic or the finer points of Jerry Lewis, Paris is the essence of all things French.

Gaze rapturously at its breezy boulevards, impressive monuments, great works of art and magic lights. Savour its gourmet selection of cheese, chocolate, wine and seafood. Feel the wind in your face as you rollerblade through Bastille, or a frisson of fear and pleasure atop the Eiffel Tower.

'Paris, I believe, is a man in his twenties in love with an older woman.' - John Berger

Environment

Latitude: 48.8819999695
Area: 105sqkms
Population: 2150000
Orientation:

Both the capital of the nation and of the historic Île de France region, Paris is located in northern central France. Central Paris - known as Intra-Muros, or within the walls - is a nice, oval-ish shape, divided neatly in two by the Seine, with 20 arrondissements (districts) spiralling clockwise from the centre in a logical fashion. The area north of the river, the Rive Droite (Right Bank), includes the tree-lined Avenue des Champs-èlysèes, running west to the Arc de Triomphe. East of the avenue is the massive Musèe du Louvre, the Centre Georges Pompidou and a lively district of museums, shops, markets and restaurants. Immediately south of the Centre Georges Pompidou on the Île de la Citè is the world-famous Notre Dame. The area south of the river, the Rive Gauche (Left Bank), is home to the city's most prominent landmark, the Eiffel Tower. To the east, in the Saint Germain de Près and Montparnasse districts, Paris' famous academic, artistic and intellectual milieus waft in and out of focus through a haze of Gitanes smoke.

Society

People:

92% French, 3% North African, 2% German, 1% Breton, 2% other (including Provençal, Catalan & Basque)

Language spoken (official): French

French is the official language and spoken by everyone; regionally however you will come across Flemish, Alsacian, Breton, Basque, Catalan, Provençal and Corsican as well.

Language spoken (other): Catalan
Language spoken (other): Basque
Language spoken (other): Breton
Language spoken (other): Corsican

Economy

Sample Prices

small bottle of beer: Euro 2.00
metro single trip ticket: Euro 1.40
Paris museum and monument pass: Euro 18.00 (1 day)
small bottle of water: Euro 0.90
adult football ticket: Euro 15.00
movie ticket: Euro 9.00
adult entry to the Louvre: Euro 8.50
cup of coffee: Euro 1.00
average seat at the Opèra Bastille: Euro 40.00
takeaway croissant: Euro 1.00
pop music CD: Euro 15.00

Room costs
Low: 15-60, Mid: 60-80, High: 80-200, Deluxe: 80-200

Meal costs
Low: 5-20, Mid: 20-30, High: 30-50, Deluxe: 30-50

Tipping:

French law requires that restaurant, cafe and hotel bills include a service charge (usually 12% to 15%); however, many Parisians leave a few coins on the table in a restaurant, unless the service was particularly bad. They rarely tip in cafes and bars when they've just had a coffee or a drink. In taxis, the usual tipping procedure is to simply round up to the nearest Euro0.50 or Euro1.00 no matter what the fare.

Eat

Every restaurant with a fistful of Michelin stars inevitably seems to have a Parisian chef with a Gallic temper and a way with jus. Eating well in this city isn't an option - it's a duty, usually policed by the aforementioned chef. Overeating is not de rigueur - an amuse-gueule will do just fine.

Night

Whatever your tastes, you'll never be bored in Paris. Music lovers can bounce from grand opera to smoky little jazz clubs to cabaret and end the night with some uplifting house or salsa. The cinema and theatre options are boundless, and the exhausted can recover in a series of stylish bars.

See

From Left Bank swagger to Right Bank swank.

Many of Paris' significant sights are strung along its river, and its quartiers each have their own distinct personalities, so you can experience a lot without covering much ground. The museums, monuments and the two islands are a magnet for visitors but it can be just as rewarding to wander.

Shop

Paris is a sublime place to shop, whether you're someone who can afford Lacroix or just an impecunious lèche-vitrine (window licker). Many quartiers still specialise, and the myriad boutiques are often worth a visit in themselves. The lively flea markets are full of bargains.

Sleep

There's a huge variety of accommodation in Paris, ranging from sumptuous palaces and converted 17th-century townhouses to poky little holes where you wouldn't tether your dog. Make the effort to look around - if you dig you'll find character and charm without bankrupting yourself. And book early!

Pre-departure

When to go

As the old song says, Paris is at its best in springtime, even if it is sometimes a little wet. In winter Paris has all sorts of cultural events going on, while in summer the weather is warm and lazy - sometimes sizzling. In August, when Parisians flee for the beaches to the west and south, many restaurateurs lock up and leave town too, but this is changing rapidly and you'll find considerably more places open in summer than even a decade ago. Things can get a bit hectic around Bastille Day and towards the end of the year so reservations at this time are a good idea.

Visas

Nationals of the EU, the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Israel do not need visas to visit France as tourists for up to three months. Except for the citizens of a handful of other European countries, everyone else must have a visa.

To apply, you'll need a passport (valid for a period of three months beyond your departure date from France), a ticket in and out of France, proof of money and possibly of accommodations, two passport-sized photos and the visa fee in cash.

Tourist visas cannot be extended except in emergencies (eg medical problems). You might try calling the Prèfecture de Police (tel 01 53 71 51 68; www.prefecture-police-paris.interieur.gouv.fr) for guidance.

If you don't need a visa to visit France, you'll almost certainly qualify for another automatic three-month stay if you take the train to Geneva or Brussels and then re-enter France.

Electricity voltage: 230V
Electricity HZ: 50Hz

Health

Dangers and Annoyances

In general, Paris is a safe city and rarely experiences random street assaults or the sorts of violent confrontations witnessed during the riots that flared in October 2005. The so-called Ville Lumière (City of Light) is generally well lit, and there's no reason not to use the metro before it stops running at some time between 00:30 and just past 1am.

Metro stations that are probably best avoided late at night include: Châtelet-Les Halles and its seemingly endless corridors; Château Rouge in Montmartre; Gare du Nord; Strasbourg St-Denis; Rèaumur Sèbastopol; and Montparnasse Bienvenüe. Bornes d'alarme (alarm boxes) are located in the centre of each metro/RER platform and in some station corridors.

Nonviolent crime such as pickpocketing and thefts from handbags and packs is a problem wherever there are crowds, especially packs of tourists. Places to be particularly careful include Montmartre (especially around Sacrè Cœur); Pigalle; the areas around Forum des Halles and the Centre Pompidou; the Latin Quarter (especially the rectangle bounded by rue St-Jacques, blvd St-Germain, blvd St-Michel and quai St-Michel); below the Eiffel Tower; and on the metro during rush hour. Take the usual (and obvious) precautions: don't carry more money than you need, and keep your credit cards, passport and other documents in a concealed pouch, a hotel safe or a safe-deposit box.

Events

Most museums and shops are closed on France's jours fèriès (public holidays). When a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, expect to see a lot of shuttered storefronts on that Monday or Friday as well. The doors of banks are good places to check for announcements of long holiday weekends.

France's national day, 14 July, commemorates the 1789 storming of the Bastille prison, the event that kicked off the French Revolution. Across the country, the holiday is celebrated with serious abandon, especially in Paris, where the day ends with a massive fireworks display and throngs of people in the streets.

New Year's Day (official holiday) 1 Jan

Easter (official holiday) late Mar/Apr

May Day (official holiday) 1 May

Victory in Europe Day (official holiday) 8 May

Ascension Thursday (official holiday) May

Pentecost/Whit Sunday (official holiday) 7th Sunday after Easter

Whit Monday (official holiday) 7th Monday after Easter

Bastille Day (official holiday) 14 July

Assumption Day (official holiday) 15 Aug

All Saints' Day (official holiday) 1 Nov

Armistice Day/Remembrance Day (official holiday) 11 Nov

Christmas Day (official holiday) 25 Dec

La Grande Parade de Paris (festival/event) 1 Jan

Banlieues Bleues (festival/event) Feb/Apr

Marathon International de Paris (festival/event) Apr

French Open Tennis Tournament (festival/event) May/Jun

Gay, Lesbian, Bi and Trans Pride Parade (festival/event) 24 Jun

Fête de la musique (festival/event) Jun

La Course des Garçons (festival/event) Jul

Bastille Day (festival/event) 14 Jul

Autumn Festival (festival/event) Sep-Dec

International Contemporary Art Fair (festival/event) Oct

Midnight Mass (festival/event) 24 Dec

New Year's Eve (festival/event) 31 Jan

August (travel-related date) most Parisians take their yearly vacations; many businesses likely to be closed

May Day (official holiday) 1 May

Fête de la Musique (festival/event) 21 Jun

International Film Festival (festival/event) mid May

Festival Interceltique (festival/event) Jul

Braderie de Lille (festival/event) Sep

Fêtes de Bayonne (festival/event) July

Activities

Those languid Parisians are now real fitness freaks (although they still manage to balance things out with a fine respect for indulgence). Gyms and fitness clubs are a penny a barrel, the parks are rife with cardio bunnies and adventure sports are très chic.

boating

On an airy summer's day get onto the cool of the water - float down the Seine (or the Marne, the Oise or any of the city's canals) in a canal boat. Rentals are available year-round.

skating

Paris has a thing for skating - hire some inlines and join the crowds in the city's parks. In winter the Patinoire du Parvis de la Dèfense and Patinoire de l'Hôtel de Ville bring ice skating into the public arena.

bowling

One of the best bowling alleys in Paris, Bowling de Paris, can be found in the Bois de Boulogne.

gym

Yes, the work-out craze has hit even tobacco-stained Parisians; there's now a gaggle of gyms in every neighbourhood.

swimming

Public swimming pools abound in Paris - for large-scale splashing check out the Aquaboulevard water park.

Weather

The Paris basin lies midway between Brittany and Alsace, and is affected by the climates of both. The Île de France region records the nation's lowest annual precipitation, but rainfall patterns are erratic; you're just as likely to be caught in a heavy spring shower or an autumn downpour as in a sudden summer cloudburst. Paris' average yearly temperature is 12°C (54°F) (3°C/37°F in January, 19°C/66°F in July), but the mercury sometimes drops below zero in winter and can climb to the mid-30s (high-80s/low-90s Fahrenheit) or higher in the middle of summer.

Communication

Area Code:

Area codes have been integrated into all French telephone numbers. Dial all 10 digits for calls within France. Paris numbers always start with 01.

The French adaptor has a protruding wing on one side shaped like a 'T'. The opposite side has the same shape inverted. A standard RJ-11 socket is found on one end.

Media

Books

Is Paris Burning? (Author: Larry Collins & Dominique Lapierre)

A modern history focusing on Paris' 1944 liberation from the Nazis.

The Fall of Paris (Author: Alistair Horne)

This history deals with the Commune of 1870-71.

Down and Out in Paris and London (Author: George Orwell)

An account of Orwell's ramblings in the two cities during the late 1920s.

A Moveable Feast (Author: Ernest Hemingway)

The famous novelist's account of bohemian life in Paris between the wars.

France Today (Author: John Ardagh)

A rich description of the politics, people and peculiarities that make up modern France.

Cross Channel (Author: Julian Barnes)

A modern insight into things Gallic.

The Second Sex (Author: Simone de Beauvoir)

The paradigm of French feminism.

The Outsider (Author: Camus)

A classic that sets the standard for existentialist angst.

Á la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Remembrance of Things Past) (Author: Marcel Proust)

This seven-volume masterpiece dominated the literary scene in the early 20th century.

Walking Paris (Author: Gilles Desmons)

A step-by-step guide to the city of lights.

The Food Lover's Guide to Paris (Author: Patricia Wells)

The essential guide for foodies.

Transport

getting there and away (overview)

France's Aèroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport is a sleek introduction to the country; it's a major international hub, so you can take your pick of flights in and out. The train system is also impressive, and will whip you quickly to most places in France; there are TGV services to Amsterdam and Brussels. You can get to Britain (and Ireland) by ferry, but Eurostar is perhaps the most chilled and luxurious way to get to Paris, and you can pop your car on board as well. Buses are fine for travel between Paris and other countries, but for the rest of France they're not so hot.

getting around (overview)

The most satisfying way to get around Paris is on foot - just watch out for the pedestrian crossings, which cars tend not to respect - or on its famous, lovely and efficient Mètro. Unfortunately, you're not allowed to take bikes on the Mètro, and the city in general is none too friendly to cyclists. If you're in a hurry to get somewhere, don't take the river shuttles that ply the Seine - they are more meandering, sight-seeing affairs than A to B propositions - or the bus system, which is horrendously inefficient. However, there are night buses, which is handy when the Mètro closes down.

Culture

History Before 20th Century

Paris was founded towards the end of the 3rd century BC on what is now the Île de la Citè by a tribe of Celtic Gauls known as the Parisii. Centuries of conflict between the Gauls and Romans ended in 52 BC, when Julius Caesar's legions took control of the territory. Christianity was introduced in the 2nd century AD, and the Roman party was finally crashed in the 5th century by the arrival of the Franks. In 508 AD, Frankish king Clovis I united Gaul as a kingdom and made Paris his capital, naming it after the original Parisii tribe.

Paris prospered during the Middle Ages: In the 12th century, construction began on the cathedral of Notre Dame (work continued for nearly 200 years), while the Marais area north of the Seine was drained and settled to become what's known today as the Right Bank. The Sorbonne opened its doors in 1253, the beautiful Sainte Chapelle was consecrated in 1248 and the Louvre got its start as a riverside fortress around 1200.

Scandinavian Vikings (also known as Norsemen, or Normans) began raiding France's western coast in the 9th century; after three centuries of conflict, they started to push toward Paris. These conflicts gave birth to the Hundred Years War between Norman England and Paris' Capetian dynasty, eventually resulting in the French defeat at Agincourt in 1415 and English control of Paris in 1420. In 1429, a 17-year-old stripling called Jeanne d'Arc re-rallied the French troops to defeat the English at Orlèans, and, with the exception of Calais, the English were expelled from France in 1453.

The Renaissance helped Paris get back on its feet at the end of the 1400s, and many of the city's signature buildings and monuments sprang up during the period. By the late 16th century Paris was again up in arms, this time in the name of religion. Clashes between the Huguenot Protestants and Catholic groups sank to their darkest levels in 1572 with the St Bartholomew's Day massacre of 3000 Huguenots in town to celebrate the wedding of Henri of Navarre (later, King Henri IV).

Louis XIV, known as le Roi Soleil (the Sun King), ascended to the throne in 1643 at the tender age of five and held the crown until 1715. During his reign, he nearly bankrupted the national treasury with battling and building. His most tangible legacy is the palace at Versailles, 23km (15mi) south-west of Paris. The excesses of Louis XVI and his capricious queen, Marie-Antoinette, led to an uprising of Parisians on 14 July 1789 and the storming of the Bastille prison - kick-starting the French Revolution.

The populist ideals of the revolution's early stages quickly gave way to a Reign of Terror, wherein even a few of the original 'patriots' got uncomfortably cosy with Madame la Guillotine. The unstable post-revolution government was consolidated in 1799 under a young Corsican general, Napoleon Bonaparte, who adopted the title First Consul. In 1804, the Pope crowned him Emperor of the French, and Napoleon proceeded to sweep most of Europe under his wing. Napoleon's hunger for conquest led to his defeat, first in Russia in 1812 and later at Belgium's Waterloo in 1815. His legacy in modern France includes the national legal code, which bears his name, and monuments such as the massive neoclassical Arc de Triomphe.

Following Napoleon's exile, France faltered under a string of mostly inept rulers until a coup d'ètat in 1851 brought a new emperor, Napoleon III, to power. In 17 years, he oversaw the construction of a flashy new Paris, with wide boulevards, sculptured parks and - not insignificantly - a modern sewer system. Like his namesake uncle, however, this Napoleon and his penchant for pugnacity led to a costly and eventually unsuccessful war, this time with the Prussians in 1870. When news of their emperor's capture by the enemy reached Paris the masses took to the streets, demanding that a republic be created. Despite its bloody beginnings, the Third Republic ushered in the glittering halcyon years of the belle èpoque.

Modern History

The belle èpoque was famed for its Art Nouveau architecture and a barrage of advances in the arts and sciences. By the 1930s, Paris had become a worldwide centre for the artistic avant-garde and had entrenched its reputation among freethinking intellectuals. The flowering of that era was cut short by the Nazi occupation of 1940, and Paris remained under Germany's thumb until 25 August 1944. (The Allied forces that retook the city were spearheaded by Free French units in order to give the French the honour of liberating their capital.) After the war, Paris regained its position as a creative hotbed and nurtured a revitalised liberalism that reached a crescendo in the student-led 'Spring Uprising' of 1968. The Sorbonne was occupied, barricades were erected in the Latin Quarter, and some 9 million people nationwide were inspired to join in a paralysing general strike, drawing attention to their increasing dissatisfaction with the rigidity of French institutions.

During the 1980s, President François Mitterand initiated the futuristic grands projets, a series of costly building projects that garnered widespread approval even when the results were popular failures. Responses to the flashier examples, like the Centre Pompidou and the glass pyramids in the Louvre, have ranged from appalled 'mon Dieux' to absolute doting rapture; if nothing else, the projets invigorated dialogue about the Parisian aesthetic.

In the late 1990s, the city seized the international spotlight with two front-page events: the rumour-plagued auto-accident death of Princess Di in 1997 and France's first-ever World Cup victory in July 1998.

Meanwhile, the political party behind Jacques Chirac (France's president since mid-1995) lost the parliamentary elections in 1997 to a coalition of Socialists, Communists and Greens headed by then Prime Minister Lionel Jospin. In the 2002 presidential elections, far-right leader Jean-Marie Le Pen was highly successful in the first round of the elections due to a low voter turnout. A subsequent strong show of support for Chirac - and a powerful slap in the face for Le Pen - gave Chirac a landslide victory, knocking Jospin out of the race in the process.

Recent History

On 31st May 2005 Chirac named Dominique de Villepin as prime minister following the resignation of Jean-Pierre Raffarin from the post.

In 2001 Paris elected its first openly gay mayor, Bertrand Delanoë. He was stabbed in a hate crime in October 2002, but recovered successfully. He continues to enjoy widespread popularity, particularly for his efforts to make Paris more liveable by promoting bicycles and buses and to create a more approachable and responsible city administration.

In October 2005, the deaths of two teenagers who were accidentally electrocuted while allegedly hiding from police in a electricity sub-station in Clichy-sous-Bois sparked riots that quickly spread across other regions of Paris, and then across France. President Jacques Chirac consequently promised to address the disenfranchisement felt by large numbers of unemployed French youth, but one of his government's first efforts - the introduction of two-year work contracts for workers under 26 years of age - was met by huge street protests in the French capital in March 2006.

Factoid

Eat Eat Eat!

Paris is where the restaurant was born. Inns would serve only once or twice at set times, but in 1765 a Monsieur Boulanger was the first to offer his patrons a list of dishes available throughout the afternoon and evening.

Places of Interest

Le Villaret

Summary Review:

Parisians who know about such things come from all over the city to this simple but buzzing bistro for its daily-changing menus featuring French classics, such as succulent leg of lamb and crispy roast chicken, accompanied by a strong wine list.

Le Loir dans la Theiere

Summary Review:

One of Paris' best spots to spend a languorous Sunday is Le Loir dans la Theiere (The Dormouse in the Teapot) a wonderful old space filled with retro toys, comfy couches and free wi-fi. Its farm-style wooden tables are laden at brunch, which is served here on both Saturday and Sunday, starting around noon and lasting as long as you like.

Cafè Marly

Summary Review:

The glittering views of IM Pei's glass pyramid, and of the French movers, shakers and stars who frequent this cafe, make drinking and/or dining here a classic Parisian experience. The perfect spot to refresh the senses during a day at the Louvre.

Godjo

Web site: www.godjo.com

Summary Review:

Although its name means 'humble farmer's house', the woven wall-hangings, carved timber artefacts and paintings at this Ethiopian restaurant make eating here something like dining in an art gallery (but a buzzy, informal one). It's a great option for vegetarians, with a slew of meatless dishes to choose from.

Le Relais Gascon

Summary Review:

Climbing the wooden staircase to this narrow townhouse's 1st-floor dining room rewards with rooftop views of Montmartre. The solidly French menu includes seafood and meat dishes, but locals pack the communal tables here to tuck into one of Gascon's gargantuan salads, served in giant bowls with thin-sliced fried potatoes sautèed in garlic.

Eiffel Tower

Web site: www.tour-eiffel.fr

Summary Review:

Built for the 1889 Exposition Universelle (World Fair), held to commemorate the centennial of the Revolution, the Tour Eiffel was the world's tallest structure at 320m (1050ft) until Manhattan's Chrysler Building was completed. Initially opposed by the city's artistic and literary elite the tower was almost torn down in 1909.

Full Review:

The tower's salvation came when it proved an ideal platform for the antennas needed for the new science of radiotelegraphy. Just southeast of the tower is a grassy expanse that was once the site of the world's first balloon flights and is now used by teens as a skateboarding arena and by activists bad-mouthing Chirac.

When you're done peering upward through the girders, three levels are open to the public. There are elevators to the top but they have long queues. You can avoid the queues by walking up the stairs in the south pillar to the 1st or 2nd platforms. Guided visits are also available.

Centre Pompidou

Web site: www.centrepompidou.fr

Summary Review:

The Pompidou Centre, also known simply as Beaubourg, is all about modern and contemporary 20th-century art. Thanks in part to its vigorous schedule of temporary exhibitions, it's the most visited cultural site in Paris. Two floors are dedicated to some of the 40000-plus works of the Musèe Nationale d'Art Moderne, the country's collection of 20th-century art.

Full Review:

The design of the Pompidou has drawn critical comment since construction began in 1972. To keep the exhibition halls uncluttered, the architects put the building's 'insides' on the outside, with each duct, pipe and vent painted in its own telltale colour: elevators and escalators are red, electrical circuitry yellow, plumbing green and air-conditioning blue.

After a massive renovation during 1998-99 the centre has a stunning reworked facade on the west side, an expanded exhibition space, and a new cinema, restaurant and cybercafe - plus new facilities for dance, theatre, CD and video.

The top floors have a magnificent view of Paris, while place George Pompidou below attracts street performers, musicians and artists.

Basilique du Sacrè Cœur

Web site: www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com

Summary Review:

The Basilica of the Sacred Heart, perched at the very top of Butte de Montmartre (Montmartre Hill), was built from contributions pledged by Parisian Catholics as an act of contrition after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71. Construction began in 1873, but the basilica was not consecrated until 1919.

Full Review:

Although the basilica's domes are a well-loved part of the Parisian skyline, most of its architecture is not very graceful. It's always dark in the nave, and the enormous mosaic of a plainly angry Christ over the main altar does little to dispel the gloom.

A 234-step climb up narrow spiral staircases takes you up to the dome, which affords one of Paris' most spectacular panoramas. It is, however, outside on the steps where the action takes place - lovers, buskers, locals and foreigners all converge to take in the vistas and each other.

Cathèdrale de Notre Dame

Web site: www.cathedraledeparis.com

Summary Review:

If Paris has a heart, then this is it. Notre Dame de Paris is not only a masterpiece of French Gothic architecture, but has also been Catholic Paris' ceremonial focus for seven centuries. The cathedral's immense interior, a marvel of medieval engineering, holds over 6000 people and has spectacular rose windows.

Full Review:

Although Notre Dame is regarded as a sublime architectural achievement, there are all sorts of minor anomalies, the result of centuries of aesthetic intervention. These include a trio of main entrances that are each shaped differently, and are accompanied by statues that were once coloured to make them more effective as Bible lessons for the hoi polloi. The interior is dominated by a 7800-pipe organ that was restored but has not worked properly since.

It's well worth the effort of climbing the 387 steps of the north tower. This will bring you to the top of the west facade and face to face with many of the cathedral's most frightening gargoyles, which enjoy a spectacular view of Paris.

Catacombes de Paris

Web site: www.catacombes.paris.fr

Summary Review:

In 1785, Paris decided to solve the problem of its overflowing cemeteries by exhuming the bones of the buried and relocating them to the tunnels of several disused quarries, leading to the creation of the Catacombes. Visitors to this disturbing 'attraction' will find themselves 20m (65ft) underground, working their way along corridors stacked with bones.

Full Review:

During WWII, the tunnels were used as a headquarters by the Resistance. People over 60 can get in for free, which says a lot about the French sense of humour.

The route through the Catacombes begins at a small, dark green belle èpoque-style building in the centre of a grassy area of av Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy, the new name of place Denfert Rochereau. The exit is at the end of 83 steps on rue Remy Dumoncel, 700m southwest of place Denfert Rochereau, where a guard will check your bag for 'borrowed' bones. Indeed, so-called cataphiles looking for cheap thrills are often caught roaming the tunnels at night (there's a fine of 60 Euros).

Musèe Rodin

Web site: www.musee-rodin.fr

Summary Review:

When he died, the renowned sculptor Auguste Rodin (1840-1907) left his magnificent 18th-century residence and a huge body of work to the state in lieu of rent. One of the most tranquil spots in the city, the Musèe Rodin is also many visitors' favourite Paris museum.

Full Review:

Rooms on two floors of the house display extraordinarily vital bronze and marble sculptures, including casts of some of Rodin's most celebrated works: The Hand of God, St John the Baptist, Balzac, Cathedral and The Kiss.

Also on display are works by Rodin's model and lover, Camille Claudel (1864-1943), whose more gentle talent was overwhelmed by Rodin's prodigious genius (and his matching temperament). She spent the last 30 years of her life in an asylum on Île St-Louis, unable to work. L'Age Mûr (Maturity) is a reflection of her torturous relationship with Rodin; the old woman is his wife.

The delightful English-style rose garden (the third-largest private garden in Paris) is filled with shade trees and sculptures, including the original version of the work everyone comes to see, The Thinker.

Musèe du Louvre

Web site: www.louvre.fr

Summary Review:

The Louvre may be the world's greatest art museum - but it's also the one most avoided by visitors to Paris. Daunted by its size and overwhelming richness, many people head to smaller galleries. But if you have even the merest interest in the fruits of human civilisation from antiquity to the 19th century, then visit you must.

Full Review:

The former fortress began its career as a public museum in 1793 with 2500 paintings; now some 30000 are on display. The most famous works from antiquity include the Seated Scribe, the Jewels of Rameses II and the armless duo - the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo. From the Renaissance, don't miss Michelangelo's Slaves, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa and works by Raphael, Botticelli and Titian. French masterpieces of the 19th century include Ingres' La Grande Odalisque, Gèricault's The Raft of the Medusa and the work of David and Delacroix.

The Grand Louvre project has rejuvenated the museum with many new and renovated galleries now open to the public. To avoid queues at the pyramid, buy your ticket in advance and/or enter through the underground shopping mall.

Bateaux Mouches

Web site: www.bateauxmouches.com

Summary Review:

Bateaux Mouches runs the biggest tour boat company on the Seine. Cruises depart from and return to the Pont de l'Alma and pass the Statue of Liberty and Eiffel Tower in the west, and Île St-Louis in the east. The night time spectacle of Paris shimmering off the Seine on a summer evening is an unforgettable experience.

L'Hôtel

Web site: www.l-hotel.com

Summary Review:

With 20 rooms and tucked away in a quiet quayside street, this place with the most minimal of names is the stuff of romance, Paris myths and urban legends. There are rooms set aside for nonsmokers and the hotel has air-con and wi-fi throughout.

Full Review:

Rock- and film-star patrons alike fight to sleep in room No 16 where Oscar Wilde died a century ago, now decorated in green with a peacock motif; or in the Art Deco room (No 36) of legendary dancer Mistinguett with its huge mirrored bed. This was also a home away from home for the Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges (1899-1986), who stayed here many times in the late 1970s and early '80s, but it seems he may have been too sombre to have a room devoted to him. Rooms give on to a large circular atrium; the public areas include a fantastic bar and restaurant under a glass canopy designed by über-designer Jacques Garcia. In the ancient cellar is a very modern swimming pool and a fumoir (smoking room).

Hôtel de Danemark

Web site: www.hoteldanemark.com

Summary Review:

Hôtel de Danemark, a positively scrumptious boutique hotel southwest of the Jardin du Luxembourg, has 15 very tastefully furnished rooms and eclectic contemporary decor contrasting with ancient stone walls.

Full Review:

Public areas such as the reception and its corner rooms are full of vibrantly coloured furniture and objects that match and contrast. The guestrooms, well soundproofed and generously sized for a boutique hotel in central Paris, contain original artwork - though not all of it is museum-quality. Some of the rooms, which are somewhat bigger on the top floor, gaze onto Henri Sauvage's Carreaux Metro, an Art Nouveau tiled apartment building designed in 1912 and a masterpiece of modernity. Internet access is via wi-fi throughout the hotel. Higher priced rooms have jacuzzis in the bathrooms. Montparnasse, with all its bars, brasseries and cinemas, is a short stroll away.

Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc

Web site: www.hoteljeannedarc.com

Summary Review:

This cosy, 36-room hotel near lovely Place du Marchè Ste-Catherine is a great little base for your peregrinations among the museums, bars and restaurants of the Marais, Village St-Paul and the Bastille.

Full Review:

Due to its location just off a quiet square filled with mulberry trees, the 'Joan of Arc' has almost a provincial feel to it. Guestrooms are of a decent size and boast large windows allowing the light to fill even the back rooms. There's a lovely light-filled breakfast room in front and original fixtures abound - from the old wooden staircase to the ancient door frames - but we also like the modern touches, such as the heated towel racks. About the only thing wrong with this place is that everyone knows about it, so you'll have to book well in advance. And do not confuse this two-star place with the two-star Grand Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc in the unlovely 13e.

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Kenzo

Web site: www.kenzo.com

Summary Review:

While Kenzo himself retired from designing in 1999, Sardinian Antonio Marras has brought a new joie de vivre to the label. The Pont Neuf flagship store is a tantalising temple to fashion and beauty. The building also houses the Philippe Starck-designed Kong bar.

Colette

Web site: www.colette.fr

Summary Review:

If you want to know what's hot, this Japanese-inspired concept store is the ultimate thermometer. Not just a selection of exquisite clothes and accessories, Colette has books, art, music and beauty products. Their famous sales see huge reductions on their designer stock, while the basement Water Bar features still and sparkling waters from around the world.

Cacharel

Web site: www.cacharel.com

Summary Review:

Another mid-20th century label undergoing a revival, Cacharel (named for a bird from Provence's Camargue region) was founded in 1960 and unlike many fashion houses, remains a private company. It's best known for its floral-printed silk georgette dresses and perfumes like the airy orange blossom, rose, lily and jasmine-scented Anaïs Anaïs.

Le Limonaire

Web site: www.limonaire.free.fr

Summary Review:

This little wine bar, tucked far away from the big commercial cabarets off rue Bergère, is one of the best places to listen to traditional French chansons (songs). The crowd can be convivial or almost reverential, depending on the night. Singers perform on the small stage nightly. It's free, with cheap food available so be generous when the hat comes around.

Le Select

Summary Review:

No mention of Montparnasse, once at the centre of Paris' artistic endeavours, would be complete without Le Select. Opened in the mid-20s, it was the first of the area's grande dame cafes to open late into the night and still draws everyone from beer-swigging students to whisky-swilling politicians.

Kong Bar

Summary Review:

With its Philippe Starck-designed postmodern decor like iridescent champagne-coloured vinyl booths and garden gnome stools, Kong fills at night with Paris' glam young set, who swill Dom Pèrignon and dance badly. But the best time to visit this bar/restaurant/club atop the Kenzo building is at sunset, when you have magical views of the river.

Au Lapin Agile

Web site: www.au-lapin-agile.com

Summary Review:

This rustic cabaret venue in Montmartre was favoured by artists and intellectuals in the early 20th century and chansons (songs) are still performed here. Poetry is read six nights a week and admission includes a drink. The name derives from Le Lapin à Gill a mural of a rabbit jumping out of a cooking pot, by caricaturist Andrè Gill.

China Club

Web site: www.chinaclub.cc

Summary Review:

A huge bar with high ceilings greets you on the ground floor, setting the Oriental gentleman's club theme. Upstairs is the fumoir (smoking room), complete with glowing fire, for cigar aficionados. The Sing Song jazz club (styled like Shanghai circa 1930) occupies the cellar.

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